Giada’s piccata is the frame here — her lemon-caper pan sauce is the one I learned first and still measure others against. The change is what sits next to it: not pasta, not mash, but roast potatoes done the English way, all ruffled edges and shattering crust.
It is a plate built out of two loyalties: the Italian sauce I learned from a book, and the roasties I will defend in any argument, at any length.

