The first time I made this, I stood at the stove stirring the roux for over an hour, convinced it was about to burn, and it came out the color of strong coffee and tasting like I’d done something ancient correctly. I made it for my best friend. He loved it. It took forever and I have never once regretted a minute of it.
There is no shortcut worth taking here. The roux is not a step in the recipe; the roux is the recipe, and everything else is company it keeps.

